Shakers Hall Mirror Woodworking Plan

Shakers Hall Mirror Woodworking Plan

This small, wall-hung hallway mirror draws its inspiration from the Shaker tradition. The Shakers were known for their simple, well-crafted furniture characterized by beautiful proportions, “minimalistic” designs, and honey-colored wood.

Shakers Hall Mirror Woodworking Plan


• Table saw, planer, and thicknesser (or buy prepared wood)
• Sliding compound mitre saw
• Router, router table, and straight cutters: 10 mm (3/8 in) and 4 mm (5/32 in)
• Cordless driver, screwdriver bit, combination bit (drills a counterbored clearance hole and pilot hole), and plug-cutter set to suit No. 8 screws and screwdriver bit
• Crosshead screwdriver
• Pin hammer
• Long-nosed pliers
• Pillar drill, 6 mm (1/4 in) and 12 mm (1/2 in) drill bits
• Orbital sander, 80-grit, and 600-grit sandpaper, sanding block
• Block plane
• Pencil, ruler, tape measure, try square
• Two sash clamps and two G-clamps
• Wood see drawing – pine, plywood, pine egg-shaped details and handle
• Mirror glass 298 x 228 x 6 mm (11.75 x 9 x 0.25 in)
• Corner plates to fix the mirror, with screws: 4
• Screws: No.8 cross-headed countersink: 10 x 30 mm (1.1875 in)
• Fluted dowels: 20 x 6 mm (1/4 in)
• Pins: 8 x 12 mm (1/2 in)
• Wall-fixing plates, plugs, and screws
• PVA glue, water, and cloth
• Varnish



1. Rebating the frame

Cut and plane all the components to size. Use the router and the 10 mm (3/8 in) straight cutter, set in the router table, to cut rebates in the vertical and horizontal members of the mirror frame for receiving the mirror gloss. The rebates in the vertical members should start 15 mm (10/16 in) from the top end and stop 30 mm (1.1875 in) from the bottom end.

2. Assembling the frame

The frame is joined together using the fluted dowels: one at each of the top corners and two at the bottom corners. Mark out the position of the dowel holes and carefully drill to a depth that is slightly greater than half the length of the dowel Apply glue to the inside of the dowel holes, insert the dowels, clamp, and check that the frame is square.

3. Fixing runners

Cut rebates in the top, bose, and ends of the carcass to take the plywood bock. Mark the position of the runners (strips of wood) and the carcass sides on the top and base of the carcass. Round over the edges and corners of both pieces with the block plane and a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Use glue and pins to fix the runners.


4. Fixing the base to the sides

Drill 12 mm (1/2 in) holes in the carcass sides and glue the dowels in place, leaving them slightly proud. When dry, plane the dowel ends flush. Mark the positions of screw holes in the base. Drill through the base and into the ends, using the combination bit, and fix with screws.

5. Fixing the top to the frame

Mark the position of the screw­ holes in the carcass top. Using the
combination bit, drill through the top and into the frame and fix with screws. Locate the frame and top on the base and sides, and drill through the top and into the sides, again using the combination bit. Fix with screws. Fit the carcass back using pins.

6. Making the drawer

Rout grooves in the drawer components to hold the drawer bottom. Mark and drill holes for the dowel joints at each corner of the drawer. Assemble using glue, one sash clamp, and two G-clamps. Plug the screw holes in the top of the carcass, fix the egg-shaped details and drawer handle, sand and varnish. Fit the back of the mirror with the wall­ fixing plates and fix to the wall.


Leave a Comment

%d bloggers like this: